By Blake Jackson
According to research at the Cornell Craft Beverage Institute. Wines, created by crossing different grape species, are gaining attention for their ability to produce high-quality wines while addressing challenges like climate change and disease pressure, reducing the need for pesticides. Research at the Cornell Craft Beverage Institute reveals intriguing perspectives on these "interspecific hybrid" grapes.
Early hybrids, developed in the 1800s to combat the phylloxera epidemic, carried a stigma due to less desirable parentage. However, modern hybrid development prioritizes high-quality wine attributes alongside disease resistance. Despite this progress, they often remain secondary to traditional Vitis vinifera varieties.
To understand the future of hybrids, a project explored industry and consumer perceptions. Winemakers in New York's Finger Lakes region highlighted the crucial role hybrids play. Chris Stamp of Lakewood Vineyards noted, “If I didn't have hybrid grapes, some years would have been tougher than others,” emphasizing their reliability.
Phil Plummer of Montezuma Winery stated, “Oh, non-vinifera’s keeping the lights on, 100%,” underscoring their economic importance. Dan Budmen of Scout Vineyards added, “Our Vignoles wine outsells our Riesling at the same price point, and Marquette outsells our Petite Syrah 3:1...in many years the quality of hybrids is better than that of vinifera.”
Winemakers also value hybrids for their versatility and potential for experimentation. Plummer remarked, “I think that these are really good wines where we can compete pricewise...there's never going to be a reason to step away from hybrids.” They offer a canvas for creating novel wines that resonate with consumers, particularly a younger generation seeking unique experiences.
As Plummer said, “The more people are willing to kind of step outside of the rigid recipe...the more cool stuff we're gonna come up with, and I think customers want to see you take that chance. At least the younger ones do.”
Challenges remain, including historical pricing that undervalues hybrids and potential consumer confusion with GMOs. Craig Hosbach of Fox Run Vineyards questioned, “If we're charging $20 for a bottle of Riesling, we should be charging $20 for a bottle of Traminette.” Another hurdle is overcoming bias from wine critics and gatekeepers.
Ultimately, the narrative surrounding hybrids will shape their future. As Ben Riccardi of Osmote Winery suggested, it’s about “Not hybrids versus vinifera. Hybrids with vinifera. A unified path forward to increased acreage and better vineyard sustainability.”
Photo Credit: cornell-university
Categories: New York, Crops, Fruits and Vegetables, Education