By Blake Jackson
The year is 2013, and the New York State Brewers Association witnesses a pivotal shift. The Farm Brewery Act, aiming to support local agriculture, is enacted. This legislation requires farm breweries to use at least 60% (increasing to 90% by 2029) of New York-grown ingredients, sparking a unique collaboration between farmers and brewers.
Robert Johnson, a passionate entrepreneur and now head maltster at Niagara Malt, embodies this collaboration. Initially drawn to the fragrant world of hops, he eventually found his niche in providing malt, a crucial ingredient in brewing, to local breweries.
"The Farm Brewery Act created a need," Johnson explains, highlighting the rise in demand for locally-sourced malt. He dedicates a portion of his land to cultivating unique grains suitable for malting, diversifying his agricultural portfolio and contributing to the local brewing scene.
This shift not only benefits established breweries like Resurgence Brewing Company, but also revives "lost crops" like barley. "Before the Act," Johnson recalls, "nobody grew barley in this area." Now, thanks to increased demand, farms like his are contributing to a more resilient and diverse agricultural landscape.
"It wouldn't be possible without the local brewers," Johnson admits. Their commitment to using New York-grown ingredients, creating a distinct "New York terroir" in their beers, fuels his passion. He meticulously transforms local barley into premium malt within just three weeks, ensuring a consistent supply for his customers.
While Johnson's operation primarily utilizes his own harvest, he also sources additional grains from other local farms, emphasizing the importance of supporting the entire local ecosystem. He believes the key lies in creating high-quality beers with a distinct regional character, a sentiment shared by many brewers across the state.
Beyond grains, Johnson's vision extends to fruits and even honey, aiming to provide brewers with a variety of locally sourced ingredients for diverse beer styles. This collaborative spirit, fostered by the Farm Brewery Act, is not only reviving forgotten crops but also building a stronger, more sustainable future for both agriculture and craft beer in New York.
Photo Credit: gettyimages-ygrek
Categories: New York, Crops