By Blake Jackson
The 2024 New York Vineyard Report has generated significant interest, raising questions about the future of grape growing and wine consumption in the state.
One question in particular: who’s planting varieties like Turan, Feteasca Neagra, and Gamay Noir, and why? With a diverse range of AVAs and wine-growing regions, including the Finger Lakes, Long Island, and the Hudson River Region, New York’s conditions encourage experimentation with different grape varieties.
Ben Riccardi, winemaker and business manager at Osmote Wine, has been experimenting with modern hybrids, such as Marquette and Aromella, which he planted last year.
Riccardi notes, “I went with them because they’re disease resistant and I already had a market for these grapes.” He’s cultivating these varieties sustainably, focusing on better airflow and reducing erosion risks, and he’s optimistic about the market for less common varieties. “I think the dominance of only a few key varietals is coming to an end,” Riccardi adds.
New York is renowned for its vitis vinifera wines, such as Riesling and Cabernet Franc, but some producers are exploring lesser-known varieties. Jim and Kathy Baker of Chateau Niagara discovered Saperavi, an Eastern European grape that thrives in the cool Niagara climate.
“We wondered what Eastern European wines and grapes were out there, and if they could be successful here in our cool climate,” Jim says. They’ve also planted Turan and Feteasca Neagra, both of which are suited to New York’s climate.
On Long Island, Osprey’s Dominion is replanting Sauvignon Blanc after a frost, considering hybrid varieties like Sauvignon Kretos and Sauvignon Rytos for their frost tolerance.
Consulting winemaker Robin Epperson-McCarthy explains, “By planting more sustainable varieties and hybrids, we will have a sustainable domino effect across our entire business.”
In the Hudson Valley, Quartz Rock Vineyard is planting a mix of Pinot Noir, Gruner Veltliner, Nebbiolo, and Gamay Noir, carefully selecting varieties based on climate adaptability. “We want to consistently grow the variety at high quality given the climate, which has been changing,” says Dan Heavens.
As Terry Bates, director of Cornell Lake Erie Research and Extension, notes, “Growers are gravitating toward varieties successful in other similar climatic regions, which has not always been the case.” This shift reflects a growing focus on climate adaptability and sustainability in New York’s wine industry.
Photo Credit: istock-jhvephoto
Categories: New York, General